The Sunday sky was grey as we arrived in Adelaide. We made our way to Adelaide Farmers markets which were terrific. Our shopping baskets were full of beautiful eggs, jersey milk, berries, nectarines, radishes, lettuce, smoked coorong mullet, avocados and goat, and then the rain came down, we rushed to the car soaking with arms full.
Like drowned rats we scampered along the edges of the China Town buildings trying to escape the rain and found some Vietnamese pho noodle soup at Thanh Thanh restaurant! Super yummy and just what we needed.
Fueled up, we headed to the art gallery which had a beautiful eclectic mix of paintings, sculptures, prints, drawings, photographs, textiles, ceramics, jewellery and furniture in grand gallery rooms beautifully presented.
Downstairs we entered the exhibition: Realms of Wonder: Jain, Hindu and Islamic Art of India which was vibrant and mystical and took me right back to my time in India especially with a jovial version of the Gayatri Mantra being played.
We stayed in Hahndorf in the Adelaide Hills for a few nights soaking up the German heritage of the town and visited Hans Heysen’s home- The Cedars which was a gorgeous family home surrounded by artist studio, garden and farmland. The home has not changed greatly since the 1920s and the rooms were filled with beautiful art, textiles and personal items belonging to the family. It was nice to see how Heysen and his family lived. His paintings are exquisite especially how he depicted light across a landscape.
Driving through the Adelaide Hills towards the Barossa we made it for lunch at Maggie Beer’s farm shop where we were greeted by a peacock showing off his brilliant feathers. It was a bustling little place, Maggie and her delectable treats are well loved! We checked out her pheasants, followed by taste testing her products and had a lovely picnic style lunch. Home made pheasant farm terrine, chicken and quince pate and pork rillette accompanied with her own pear cider was perfect. We then waved goodbye to Mike and Kathy to continue our journey solo again.
We had plans of heading up towards the FIinders Ranges although we decided to stick to the coast as a heat wave was predicted – we decided when camping in a heat wave swimming is essential! We ended up heading to the Yorke Peninsula making a few stops along the way in some sweet country towns and decided to camp at Innes National Park.
Driving through the park was beautiful, Stenhouse Jetty, lighthouses and emus with their teenage chicks walking on the side of the road. We drove into a shady camp ground in the National Park, which unfortunately appeared full. Dan got out of the car to see if there were any spots available and was greeted by a lovely lady Tis who was in the midst of doing the dishes and said they could move for us so we could fit in! So lovely! We met all of the happy campers (Tis and David, Becky and Rosie, Clara and family, Lizzy and family, Wanda and family, Kerry and family, Mark and Jan, Margot and Jane) who were all friends mostly from the Adelaide Hills who spend their holiday there each year. We enjoyed their happy smiles and company. I joined them for lovely walks, one day from Browns Beach back to the campsite around the sculptural ocean rocks, along the beach with sun bleached shell beds, up the sand dune and along the cliff line. Another day to Pondalowie beach stopping on the way for a body surf. Pondalowie is a charming fishing village with fisherman shacks and we were rewarded at the end with salad wraps by Jan, Margot and Jane’s friends who were staying in one of the fishing shacks.
Shell beach was gorgeous, beautiful for swimming, walking, snorkeling and fishing and there was a stunning deep rock pool which we plunged ourselves into every day putting on our snorkels and exploring the underwater world.
During our time here there was a severe heat wave, temperatures reaching up to the high 30s- 40 degrees for days. The heat was exhausting and the bees, march flies, shingle back lizards and roos were desperate for any moisture. During these hot days we set up a tarp down at the beach spending the whole day down there, most of the time in the water and under the tarp hiding from the sizzling hot sun. The Adelaide Hills crew had their vintage ‘moanas’ set up for shade which we thought were way too cool and we are keeping our eyes peeled to pick one up at a garage sale along the way.
On the hottest day the sunset transformed the sky into pink and purple hues and we had a dinner picnic on the beach sipping icy cold champagne, playing beach soccer and frolicking in the cool water.
We had some luck fishing catching squid, blue throat wrasse, salmon trout and sweep which fed us a few more days before going into town to restock our supplies.
We tried a fun fish dish that we have wanted to try for a while which turned out to be a hit!
SALT AND VINEGAR FISH
- Buy a pack of salt and vinegar chips and crush them up
- Place the fillets of fish and shake dusting them in sat and vinegar crumbs
- Cook them up in a pan in oil
- Yum yum salt and vinegar fish and chips together at last!!!
From Innes National Park we didn’t make it too far and drove only 50km to Point Turtan where we stayed in a gorgeous caravan park to have a shower and to do some washing. The caravan park was beautifully kept and was a little lush green oasis opposite the jetty and boat ramp with a lovely sense of community. The jetty and boat ramp were bustling with activity. We went fishing of the jetty catching squid, garfish and crabs and after than jumped off the jetty and went snorkeling along the pylons where we saw lots of beautiful coral growing providing habitat for lots of little fish. The fish cleaning table was busy with boats coming in and people cleaning King George Whiting. We traded some squid for a few fillets of King George Whiting with some fisherman we got chatting to. Amazing fish- no wonder it is $65/kg at the shops!
We met some lovely people here who we chatted to during our week. Greg and Ann who I first met at the washing line when I ran out of pegs, thankyou Ann for a few extra pegs that windy day! We talked fishing and great places to head to on our travels. We also met a lovely couple Maria and Ossie who live at Black Point on the Yorke Penninsula. We enjoyed their company and shared laughs and evening drinks together. They have a winery at Ardrossan, Emoyeni Wines. Their Riesling, Shiraz and Port are beautiful! They were very generous and invited us to come stay with them for a few days, which we accepted.
We had a lovely stay with Ossie and Maria at Black Point overlooking the very pretty beach towards the Ardrossan silos. During our stay we enjoyed going out on their tinny, jetskiing, kayaking and walking the charming ‘shack’ lined beach with their happy dog Brits/Britty who loves chasing seagulls and swimming out to boats to scare shags.
In the afternoons Dan snorkeled spotting razorfish and blue swimmer crabs guarding their territory and as the sun fell to the horizon Brits and Dan fished for sand whiting as Maria and I sipped on their lovely Riesling at the water’s edge. We had lovely dinners with many bottles of wine and one night Ossie fired up the woodfired pizza oven and we had homemade pizzas with succulently sweet tomatoes and herbs from their vegie patch. Yummo!
One early morning we headed to the Emoyeni vineyard to give Ossie and Josh (their son) a hand in netting the vines before harvest in a few weeks, which was a great experience. Ossie then showed us the process they go through to make their fantastic wines and then tested the sugar content of the Riesling and Shiraz variety grapes to see when the grapes would be ready for harvest.
Lovers of cars we were given a burn in Ossie’s mustang through the surrounding areas and stopped at a charismatic stone pub in Curramulka covered in green grape vines for a delicious pub lunch.
What a fantastic time we had! Thankyou Maria and Ossie for your hospitality and sharing your idyllic wines with us! Lucky us!
Eyre Peninsula SA here we come! Keep following us at huntergathererdiaries.com